We were fortunate to have 24 individual leopard sightings – both day and night viewings – during the 18 days of bush camping. The photographs show them sleeping, eating a very recent kill and then washing up afterwards. Washing not only grooms but removes blood and kill debris that attracts the pesky flies and also alerts hyenas. The leopard lying on the sand was sleeping so soundly it did not bat a whisker during the time we watched him.
The lions do pretty much the same, though the ones we saw several times did mostly sleeping and more sleeping – up to 20 out of 24 hours a day!. We saw the same pride of nine until they made a water buffalo kill one morning when they were joined by an additional three. We were able to watch them from about 15 feet away for more than a half hour. Periodically one would look up at us, but they were totally engrossed in eating and paid us no mind.
Both the lions and leopards exude the confidence and nonchalance of an apex predator and did not react much to our presence. They are so engrossed in what they are doing that we were able to watch them for long periods of time.
Wild dogs are an endangered species so we were very lucky to see them. The pack of seven was scrapping over a dead impala when they were interrupted by three hyenas trying for a steal, and a terrific noisy fight ensued. We thought the cornered hyena would be a goner but it was able to escape. The dogs are quite beautifully marked but have a vicious, furtive demeanor. While the fight was going on, another hyena and a tawny eagle swooped in for scraps.
With the hyenas, we were treated to a night sighting of two babies who were so curious about our vehicle that they came right up to the headlights and sniffed. Much cuter as babies than adults!
Hyenas are a constant threat for stealing a kill from a leopard. The hyenas in the area we visited do not hunt for themselves anymore, but rely solely on scavenged meals. They have a very eerie repertoire of calls which we heard every night in camp. Lucky us.